Sweden’s Culinary Revolution

  • The fire pit in the 'stone age' kitchen at Stockholm's Ekstedt produces remarkable dishes like this smoked beef tartare with black trumpet mushrooms, chanterelles, and lingonberrie.

    The fire pit in the 'stone age' kitchen at Stockholm's Ekstedt produces remarkable dishes like this smoked beef tartare with black trumpet mushrooms, chanterelles, and lingonberrie.

  • Scallop with cauliflower, cabbage, and gooseberries at Volt.

    Scallop with cauliflower, cabbage, and gooseberries at Volt.

  • Daniel Berlin in his kitchen in Skåne Tranås, deep in the Swedish south.

    Daniel Berlin in his kitchen in Skåne Tranås, deep in the Swedish south.

  • Mathias Dalgren's Matsalen dining room.

    Mathias Dalgren's Matsalen dining room.

  • The garden-fresh Satio Tempesta salad at Stockholm's Frantzén/ Lindeberg features 40 different kinds of fruit and vegetables.

    The garden-fresh Satio Tempesta salad at Stockholm's Frantzén/ Lindeberg features 40 different kinds of fruit and vegetables.

  • Pike perch with elderberries, cookies, and cabbage at Volt.

    Pike perch with elderberries, cookies, and cabbage at Volt.

  • Stockholm Harbor.

    Stockholm Harbor.

  • One of the six tables in Fäviken's barn-like dining room.

    One of the six tables in Fäviken's barn-like dining room.

  • A chef at Fäviken gathering ingredients from the restaurant's garden.

    A chef at Fäviken gathering ingredients from the restaurant's garden.

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THE DETAILS

GETTING THERE Though direct flights from Southeast Asia to the Swedish capital are few, Thai Airways (thaiairways.com) operates daily nonstops between Bangkok and Stockholm. Finnair (finn air.com) flies the same route via its Helsinki hub, through which it also connects to Hong Kong.

WHERE TO STAY Stockholm hotels have long been on the pricey side, and Ett Hem (2 Sköldungagatan; 46-8/200-590 ; etthemstockholm.se; doubles from US$569), a newly renovated 12-room guesthouse designed by Ilsa Crawford, is no exception. Easier on the wallet is Hotel Skeppsholmen (1 Gröna Gången; 46-8/407-2300; hotelskeppsholmen.com; doubles from US$269), which inhabits a 1699 building on an  island in the center of the city.

STOCKHOLM RESTAURANTS

Ekstedt 17 Humlegårdsgatan; 46-8/611-1210; ekstedt.nu Frantzén/Lindeberg 21 Lilla Nygatan; 46-8/208-580; frantzen-lindeberg.com Gastrologik 14 Artillerigatan; 46-8/662-3060; gastrologik.se Mathias Dahlgren Matsalen Grand Hôtel, 6 Södra Blasie-holmshamnen; 46-8/679-3584; mathiasdahlgren.com Volt 16 Kommendörsgatan; 46-8/662-3400; restaurangvolt.se

FARTHER AFIELD For a taste of some of Sweden’s most exciting cuisine, head south to Malmö by plane or train for the 45-minute drive to Daniel Berlin Krog (21 Diligensvägen, Skåne Tranås, 46-417/20300; danielberlin.se); the best bet for local lodgings is the Logi Gamlegård (46-417/31000; logigamlegard.se; doubles from US$200), a farmhouse-turned-inn outside Tomelilla. Remoter still is Fäviken Magasinet (216 Fäviken, Järpen; 46-647/ 40177; favikenmagasinet.se), which from Stockholm requires a flight north to Östersund followed by an hour’s drive to Järpen. Book ahead for one of the estate’s six guest rooms, which go for about US$300 a night, including breakfast.

Originally appeared in the December/January print issue of DestinAsian “Swede Tidings.”

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