Singapore Restaurants: Turning The Tables

  • Trunk-like columns rise above the dining room at Forest.

    Trunk-like columns rise above the dining room at Forest.

  • Salt Tapas's head chef, Tom Wells

    Salt Tapas's head chef, Tom Wells

  • Scallop carpaccio with cucumber, apple, and horseradish

    Scallop carpaccio with cucumber, apple, and horseradish "snow" at Pollen.

  • Sushi master Hiroki Sudou at work.

    Sushi master Hiroki Sudou at work.

  • Counter-side setting at Sushi Ichi.

    Counter-side setting at Sushi Ichi.

  • Duxton's signature Ozaki Wagyu steak.

    Duxton's signature Ozaki Wagyu steak.

  • Under the big top Pollen's Flower Dome location at Garden by the Bay.

    Under the big top Pollen's Flower Dome location at Garden by the Bay.

  • Baked bone marrow with shitake duxelles at Salt Tapas.

    Baked bone marrow with shitake duxelles at Salt Tapas.

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—POLLEN Jason Atherton’s collaboration with hotelier-cum-restaurateur Loh Lik Peng is in full bloom. Just six months after opening esquina Tapas Bar to critical acclaim, in June they cut the ribbon to Pollen, a larger outpost anchoring a double-tiered space in the climatecontrolled Flower Dome at Gardens by the Bay. The leafy, low-key wood-and-tile setting may not compete for attention with the postcard views of the Singapore Flyer across the water, but Atherton’s Japanese and Mediterranean-accented contemporary European cuisine does—think Sydney rock oysters in a yuzu-scented dashi broth, or John Dory basking in light prawn-head bisque (18 Marina Gardens Drive, Flower Dome, Gardens by the Bay; 65/6604-9988).

—SALT TAPAS After his runaway success with Salt Grill, Luke Mangan—one of Australia’s biggest celebrity-chef exports—is back with the debut of Salt Tapas at the busy Raffles City Shopping Centre. While brick walls and mosaic tiles aim at capturing the allure of a Spanish mesón, Mangan’s menu is anything but formulaic, with rustic plates enlivened by Middle eastern spices. Among the best is the roasted pumpkin with dukkah, Spanish blue cheese, caramelized pear, and walnuts (01-22A Raffles City Shopping Centre; 65/6837-0995).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

—SUSHI ICHI hinoki-wood counter set with handcrafted Japanese tableware provides a quietly elegant setting for Sushi Ichi’s Kyotostyle kaiseki and edomae sushi, prepared with restraint by yuji yabe and hiroki Sudou. This offshoot of the Michelin-starred Tokyo flagship, located among the glittery retail emporia of Scotts Square, is already winning plaudits for its parade of seasonally inspired kaiseki courses, such as mullet roe–flecked potato cake in dashi. Be sure to try the sushi, too—it’s jet-fresh from Tokyo’s Tsukiji market (6 Scotts Rd.; 65/6299-0014).

Originally appeared in the October/November 2012 print issue of DestinAsian magazine (“Turning The Tables”)

 

 

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