Back at Wonderland in the Old Town I’m sitting in my oversized chair, a strong cocktail in hand, remembering back to when we first came to Phuket all those years ago. We’ve come a long way since that dark New Year’s Eve in Patong; my son is now two and a half, walking, talking, trouble-making. I also have a daughter, born in Phuket. While not perfect—is anything?—we appreciate all that our adopted home has given us so far; the opportunities provided, the people we have met, the everyday joys. And here, in this wonderfully odd little bar, on this unusual night, everything seems to click into place, and my vision becomes clear. We are now a part of this island. It has welcomed us home.
THE DETAILS
Where to Stay
The island’s ever-expanding resort scene caters to all tastes and budgets, from the ultra-luxe Trisara (66-76/310-100; doubles from US$910) to the family-centric Cape Panwa Hotel (66-76/391-123; doubles from US$142). Among the newest arrivals to look out for are Point Yamu by Como (66-76/360-100; doubles from US$278), Kata Rocks (66-76/ 370-777; doubles from US$758); and, close to Nikki Beach, Anantara Phuket Layan (66-76/ 317-200; doubles from US$171).
Where to Eat
You could just make your way to Phuket Town’s Blue Elephant (96 Krabi Rd.; 66-76/ 354-355) to admire the architecture: the Thai restaurant (a sister to London’s Blue Elephant) inhabits a handsome 1903 Sino-Portuguese mansion that was originally owned by a Chinese tin baron. It also runs the island’s best cooking school.
Seafood with a Thai twist stars at Thames Kraitat’s casual Fish 4 Thought (5/1 Viset Rd., Rawai; 66-81/272-6005)—try the Phuket-style crab curry and grilled tiger prawns—while across the island near Surin Beach, Silk (15 Moo 6, Kamala; 66-76/338-777) is a stylish rooftop venue serving updated Thai classics like tom kha gai and chopped pork salad.
For European flavors, Breeze at Cape Yamu (222 Moo 7; 66-81/271-2320) combines stunning Sapam Bay views with a regularly changing menu of dishes that might include snapper a la plancha or duck confit.
Where to play
On Surin Beach, Bimi bills itself as an “all-day party beach club” with giant outdoor rain showers and thatched cocktail huts. Next door, the laid-back Bongo Rum Bar pours finely aged, quality distilled rum from around the world. Farther north at Nikki Beach, the revelry continues at what is Phuket’s highest profile beach club yet. Also look for Wonderland (104 Yaowaraj Rd.) in Phuket Town, where cheekily named shooters and cocktails (Slap and Tickle; Your place or Mine) are the order of the day.
This article originally appeared in the April/May 2014 print issue of DestinAsian magazine (“Pondering Phuket”).
