Trading Places: El Born
The Born neighborhood is as historic as it is stylish. While streets still carry the names of their ancient guilds, many of the medieval merchants’ houses and tallers (workshops) have been recently converted into restaurants, hip bars, and trendy shoe stores. Along Carrer de l’Argenteria (Silversmiths’ Street), a pedestrian corridor that cuts diagonally into the heart of El Born, is Cafés El Magnífico. Dating back to 1919, this third-generation family-owned coffee company buys selectively, roasts in small batches, and grinds only as needed. Recently, they have also begun making cups of coffee to be enjoyed on the bench at the shop’s entrance.
At the end of Carrer de l’Argenteria is the church of Santa Maria del Mar, a stunning 14th-century basilica with a massive and airy open nave. On the compact square out front is a snug wine bar, La Vinya del Senyor, that stocks 350 or so different wines. Especially interesting for local oenophiles is the list of 20 wines by the glass that changes every fortnight. It also serves a handful of gourmet platillos (small dishes) such as exquisite canelons (cannelloni) stuffed with roasted meat and porcini mushroom oil, and shredded salt cod with tomatoes and bold olive oil.
In the shadow of the basilica, along Carrer dels Sombrerers (Hatmakers’ Street), is Casa Gispert. Here, generations of master roasters have been using the same metal tumbler to roast nuts beside a wood fire since 1851. The shop’s deep, earthy aromas recall an old farmhouse. The Spanish marcona almonds (pale, flat, nearly round) are superb, but the hazelnuts from Tarragona, 80 kilometers south of Bar-celona, are their most sublime product. Usually sold while still warm, they are scooped into a paper bag that is perforated with the tip of a pencil to keep the nuts from softening in the heat.
There are plenty of other gourmet goodies to pick up here: Spanish saffron from La Mancha and pimentón dulce (smoked sweet paprika) from La Vera; excellent dried fruits (including fragrant Málaga raisins); dried-herb bundles called farcellets; and chocolates by Barcelona prodigy Enric Rovira.
From Casa Gispert, follow the Rambla del Born down to the grandiose Mercat del Born, which served as the city’s main wholesale market until 1973. With its soaring naves, turret, and glazed coppery-orange and blue roof tiles, the 1870s iron-framed structure is a fine example of highly decorative Catalan Modernism. While it is no longer in use as a market—the ruins of a medieval city, discovered a decade ago, are currently being excavated—there are a number of excellent food shops on the street facing it.
Since 1941, La Ribera has been frequented by those looking for an incredible selection of salt cod, olives, and, especially, tinned conservas: anchovies, razor clams, cockles, squid in their own ink, bonito del norte tuna, white asparagus in natural brine, roasted red piquillo peppers, and the like. Spain is unusual in its love for—and vast array of—conserves, and no country has guarded or expanded the tradition as strongly. Such items are, for me, the true stars of Spanish gastronomy. They make perfect appetizers, but can also have a meal built around them. Now, with your walk done, it’s time to hail a taxi and head off to lunch at one of the city’s choice tables. That is, if you’re still hungry.
